Garment #4:  The Puffy Shirt

I made a bunch of serious mistakes in this shirt, but I kept going thinking that they wouldn’t be glaringly visible.  Plus, I’m hoping this shirt will grow on me; this one’s definitely out of my comfort zone.  Interestingly, if you’re a fan of CAbi Clothes, there is a shirt almost exactly like this one in the Fall ‘09 Catalogue (I can’t figure out how to link the shirt).  About the only differences I can tell are the sleeves are more fitted and it’s made out of a charmeuse type material.  Incidentally, this shirt would be LOVELY in a thin satin, I think!

Back

The biggest mistake I made with this shirt began with the confusing center front pattern piece:

Now, I know, this was a multi-purpose pattern piece, meant for other shirts in the magazine, so there are lots of numbers and markings not meant for this shirt.  I’ve figured that one out.  But look.  There’s a CF marking, an unlabeled line, a facing fold line, and a generic “fold” line.  Where do I fold? And, why would I fold this all up when I have a separate center front band piece? UGH! *rescue me, big 4, spoon feed me my directions!  My brain is too addled to figure this out!!*  AHEM!!  Okay, so here’s what I THINK you’re supposed to do.  Add a seam allowance to the furthest line to the left (I labeled it after I figured this out) and cut there.  Basically, you will attach the flounce to the now labeled line.   Interface the CF band and proceed as instructed.    I attached the flounce to the CF line, which was a mistake.  This threw off the collar stand, the collar, and just try easing an extra inch of neck in to that collar stand!  Again, UGH!  Okay, so now you can learn from my mistake.

  Apart from the wonky neck and puckery shoulder line, the rest of the construction went okay.  I did my usual 3-times-and-screw-it when setting in the sleeves (do all BWOF sleeves have this much ease in their patterns?).

The flounce on front turned out nicely, and hopefully, it will cover up all my mistakes:

I finished the edges with the roll-hem function on my serger.  The ruching is a nice and stylish touch:

This is 7 rows of a simple straight stitch.  I used elastic thread that I hand wound in the bobbin.  Here’s a shot of it on me (please excuse the colored undergarments).  It’s a whole lotta look!

Okay, I think I’m going to like this.  If nothing else, it’ll make a great layering piece.  If you make this go with a thin drape-y fabric.  I used a thin cotton/Lycra blend.  Please forgive the Puffy Shirt comment, the Seinfeld re-runs are on here at least twice a day!!

Here they are, my new jeans!

Some butt shots:

I made size U with no alterations.  I’m 5’4”, and I think I only cut 1/2” off at the legs.  I really like the fit through the legs and hips.  The waistband is problematic.  The pattern piece is a straight rectangle, which should  have been a red flag right for me right there.  As made, it gapes open at the back.  Next time, I’ll draft a curved waistband.  Also, I’m not sure that there’s much of a benefit from cutting it out on the bias, as the instructions have you doing.  As they are, these jeans do quite nicely with a belt.  And, they’re very comfortable.  The fabric is stretch denim, which the pattern calls for.  If I make these again, I’ll go down a size.  I think I could get away making up this size in non-stretch denim. 

Some topstitching details for you, nothing fancy, just freehand drawings that I drew on the pocket with erasable pencil.  Garment #3 complete!  I think I’ll break from pants for now and tackle one of my tops.

My version of the Apres Surf Hoodie from Interweave Knits magazine.  I’m knitting it in the round, meaning I’m knitting the front and back together in one tube; once I get to the arm holes, they’ll be separated into the front and back.  Right now, I’m about 8 inches up from the bottom.  This is my first attempt at knitting lace.  It’s not too hard, just lots of yarn-overs and knit-2-togethers.  Also, I finished my Jalie jeans today!  I’m just waiting for my photographer to get home from school, so pictures later!!

I completed the 2nd pair of pants over the Labor Day weekend.  This is Vogue 1059, another alice+olivia pattern (I love all of their patterns).

I used this wonderful plaid wool flannel I bought last year from Gail K’s.  The greatest thing about this fabric is that it has some slight stretch.  These are typical a+o pants with a wide waistband; they also have very wide legs:

These are so comfortable!  I cut out a size 14, which ended up way too big.  I took in each side seam by almost one inch.  I left the crotch curve at a 14.  I really like how these fit! *hmmm, I might try doing this with other pants…I’ll cut a size 14 crotch and a size 10 hip-side seam…..maybe* 

The pattern itself is interesting.  One view has a back zipper, so if you shy away from fly fronts, you can still make these.  There is also an option for side front pockets.  I made mine with back welt pockets and a zip fly:

I really love patterns that include instructions on clean-finishing the fly shield.  I usually forget to do this unless I have a reminder.

I’ve gotten pretty good at making a nice looking zipper fly; the welt pockets, not so much.  I was able to press out most of the puckers, and you don’t notice it when worn (okay, yeah, you  do):

I’ll keep the pockets basted closed until the first wearing.

Other than my crappy welt pockets, these pants are pretty straight-forward.  To cut down on bulk, I stitched the bottom of the belt carriers to the outside of the pants waistband.  The tops were included in the top seam.  Also, I lined the waistband facing with china silk rather than self fabric.  The instructions didn’t include lining the pants, but since these are wool, I lined mine.

I really like these, mistakes and all.  With the different waistband/pocket options, this is a pretty versatile pattern.

If you’re a member of Pattern Review, you’re probably aware of the Wardrobe Contest, and, well, I decided to enter this one.  It’s been approximately one year since I’ve entered a contest, and I’m always happy when I’m done with them, whether or not I win (okay, I’ve never won one).

The challenge is to make 5 tops, 4 bottoms, and a topper;  10 items in all that must all work together.  I’ll be making at least one pair of jeans, since I pretty much live in those.  I really need some more white shirts, so two of the tops will be button-down shirts.  The others will be comfy knits.  I’m not sure about the 5th top, either, but I’ve got time to decide.  Right now, I’ve got one pair finished, and I cut out the jeans today.

And Finally….

I’ve always heard great things about the interfacings from Off the Cuff, so recently, they had a sale and I bought the maximum amount of all the sale interfacings.  They arrived yesterday, woo hoo!  I’m so set on interfacing!

As promised, here’s the jacket portion of the pattern.  Compared to the pants, this really is an easy jacket to make.  It’s a loose-fitting raglan sleeve jacket with a stand-up collar.  The sleeves are 3/4 length with pleats at the shoulders:

The shoulder pleats create a dramatic silhouette:

The jacket was interfaced (with the exception of the sleeves) with a woven fusible and fully lined.

I had a bunch of leftover piping from the pants, so piped the lining to the facing (always a nice touch).

Four bound buttonholes down the front.

I put machine buttonholes on the facing side, and I added one hook-and-eye closure at the neck seam.

I can see myself making these pants again, but probably not the jacket, it’s pretty distinctive.  This would really be a good look for those with narrow or weak shoulders.  Overall, this is simple jacket to make.  There’s no fit to it, no sleeves to set, and no 4-point collar to fool with.  I went down a size from my usual 12 and made up the 10 with still plenty of room.

Just for kicks, here’s what it looks like when worn open:

Sometime last year, possibly as a New Year’s “Resolution”, I mentioned that I wanted to tackle Vogue 1066:

Picture from www.style.com

Well, I’m finally finished!  these are the pants:

I made these out of a charcoal suiting blend from Fabric.com.  It might have had some wool in it, but I think it was mostly poly.  It has a nice drape to it.  It is dark, though, so my camera is not wanting to capture good images:

These are cool pants!  Just look at all the great details!

I found that the pattern is cut really slim; the top of of the pants sit real close to the natural waist.  The pattern describes them as straight-legged pants, but I think the legs have a slight flair to them.

The instructions are super fabulous, with detailed steps on making and clean-finishing the fly front:

The pockets also get the same “vip” treatment, with instructions on finishing the edged with bias binding.  I love pockets that are cut to attach to the fly seam.  This keeps a smooth finish across the front, keeps the pockets from gaping open after your big meal, (hohoho)

On the outside, the pocket edges and waist seam are piped.  I used china silk cut on the bias.  I left off the piping at the waist seam to cut down on bulk.  The instructions also have you piping the tabs, but I didn’t to those either:

For the tabs, I re-fashioned some leather that I had in my stash.  I didn’t put button-holes in them, I just sewed the buttons down over them, so they’re “fixed”.  I dunno, I’ll probably remove those, at least the ones over the pockets.  I don’t like not being able to slide my hands in my pants pockets without fiddling with them!  Anyway….the details continue with rows of topstitching and these interesting belt carriers that are attached to the pants with, you guessed it, more buttons.  All in all, I think there are 8 buttons on these pants!

I eliminated back darts and eased the back into the waistband,  a couture technique that Claire Schaeffer uses in her patterns.  As I said, this pattern was on the slim side for me.  I cut out my usual 12 and had to let out every seam possible to get it to fit!  It’s still fairly snug.  Also, because this fabric was practically see-through, I ended up lining the pants with china silk.  Dangit, my beautifully constructed fly and pocket all enclosed, never to be seen again (LOL)!  I highly recommend this pattern.  The instructions are superb, and I’d be willing to bet that you don’t have anything in your closet like these!!

Here’s a sneak-peak at the entire ensemble!  I’ll post a review of the jacket tomorrow, but you can see why the need for the slim pants-to offset the boxy jacket.   TTFN!

HA! Better late than never!  Here at the end of Summer, I’ve finally made my maxi dress!

Hope you got your ear plugs on ‘cause this is one loud dress, LOL!  This is more stash Jersey from the www.fabric.com warehouse sale (incidentally, it’s coming up again real soon, maybe I’ll go, hmmm).

Line drawing:

This is an easy enough dress to put together.  The bodice is lined with another piece of jersey that is un-shirred.

This is the lining, back with 2 fronts, sewed together at the side seam along with the outer fabric.  I fused the top of the lining piece with bias tape.  I then made the straps:

I constructed the top, and then added the skirt.  No zipper used:

I don’t recommend constructing it the way I did.  I tried to follow the directions in the magazine, and I ended up  hand sewing the facing down on the inside.  Here’s what I would do next time:

Construct the front and lining front separately, including the straps.

Sew the front together to the lining, right sides together, straps included.  Sew along the top edges, turn the corner and sew the straps.  Then sew the inside neck edge.  Trim the corners very carefully, especially the V at the center front.  Do not sew the side and bottom seams.  You might need a tube turner to turn the straps out.

Sew the back and back lining together at the top edge, at the same time attaching the straps on at the back edge at the markings.

Attach the front and back together at the side seams.  The outer fabric and lining is attached in one continuous seam.

Attach the skirt.

I also made a note to raise the front edge to attach about 1-1 1/2 inches higher up on the straps.  For this dress, I shortened the straps by one inch.  This dress is very comfortable to wear, and, as a huge bonus in my book, you can wear a strapless bra!  I’ll make another one of these next Summer, probably in a tamer solid. :)

Pattern Review has a new contest to start in September, and since it’s been a year since I’ve successfully completed one of these, I figure it’s a good time to enter another CONTEST!!!

The rules are to make 4 bottoms, 5 tops, one “topper”, and use a print in there somewhere.  They all have to work together as well.  I don’t know how well mine are going to work together, but I’m not buying any more fabrics, and these will go well with the items in my closet.  The pants options are on the bottom:

Plaid orange cashmere will be Vogue 1059; stretch denim, Jalie 2908; plaid wool either Vogue 1035 or Vogue 8131; and of course, my Vogue 1066 that I’ve had on my list for a while.

The tops will be:   Jalie 2566 in the orange knit and 2 white button-down shirts.  If one is good, two’s better, right?  I haven’t figured out what the brown knit is going to be, and I still have to find a print fabric to work with all of these.  I shouldn’t be too hard to find, since most of these fabrics are fairly muted. 

My topper item will be the cozy Simplicity pattern in a grey knit.  I traced the BWOF and the Jalie patterns today, can’t start cutting until September 1st – rules, you know……

Pattern:  Style Wise from the Winter 2009 issue of Verena Magazine

I used 10 skeins of Noro Iro.  This is an easy pattern for a boxy, loose-fitting coat.  I set the record with this one, knitting this in about 2 1/2 weeks!

The yarn is a wool-silk blend and it’s very warm.

without the belt…

I love it!  This is my first Fall/Winter project.

Well, now I know that to be the case!  I started this sweater this past Tuesday.  By Friday, I finished the back.  I truly cannot put this project down.  Talk about instant gratification!  This chunky yarn and big needles make for quick results:

This is a simple cardigan/coat pattern from the Winter 08/09 issue of Verena.  The pattern is called “Style Wise.”

I start the fronts today, boy I can’t stop!  What is it about this yarn? Probably, it’s the variation of colors, one never gets bored. 

Remember this pattern?

The pattern is Vogue 1066, and I actually got the pants cut out this week.  I said I was going to do this last year, but that didn’t happen.  I have enough fabric for the jacket as well, so I’ll hopefully get this outfit made.  This will be my first Fall ‘09 garment!

I was not prepared to like this as much as I do!  I haven’t even hemmed the bottom yet, but I wore it last night to dinner, he he.  This is the top from BWOF-7-2009-124a, the top (it also makes up into a dress).  The pattern is only 3 pieces:  the front, 2 backs, and 2 ties, plus a neck cord.  I couldn’t really summon the patience to get into the directions, so I winged it.  I’m really happy with the results.  Here are a few things I did:

I sewed the ties up first, and then sewed them into the side seams.  Then I sewed the side seams together and then bound the edges continuously from the back to the neck opening.

For the neck strap, I covered a 1/8” cotton cord with fabric and added pewter beads on each end.

You can finish this in an afternoon!  Here’s the top on me:

I like the coverage, still it’s a bit low in the back.  I kept fiddling with it to keep the back bra strap covered.

So, here’s the funny part.  I got to this point of construction, almost complete, when I went back to look at the magazine picture more closely.  This is when I discovered that this top was meant to have a wrapped back!  As in, I was supposed to keep one side of each back piece free and sew the ties to each piece.  woops!  Oh well, I like what I did better, catching both back pieces into the side seams.  The ties are just decorative at this point.  I think I’ll leave the bottom hem unfinished and be done with it.

Look at me…Posting!  Writing!  SEWING!!!  I tell ya, this has not been the “Summer of Sewing” at my house; that is, until this week while the kids are away at camp (sing Handel’s Halleluiah chorus here).  So, cheers to me for sewing (and finishing) something!  It’s big, I kid you not!

I‘ve had this gorgeous Amy Butler Lotus fabric in my stash for a while, as well as this great pattern, McCall's 5591.  This is a pleated skirt with yoke, back zipper, and slant pockets.  Here are some more details:

The slant pocket has a little reinforcing band piece.  You could use contrasting fabric here, so cute!

Back view

The thing that gives this skirt interest is the pleating.  You can’t tell on my busy fabric, but the pleats are all different.  There is one big box pleat plus an additional pleat on each front and back side.  Since this is unwashed cotton, all the pleating makes this skirt “stand out”; I feel kinda like June Cleaver in this, LOL:

See how poufy?  This will go down once the skirt gets washed, but I really like the effect as is!

The directions are very straightforward and easy to follow.  Since I did use plain cotton, I decided to “beef it up” underneath and use a Hong Kong finish:

Look!  I even bound the zipper!  I’m in too much of a hurry to ever do that!  This is real big for me, let me tell ya!

I made up a size 12, with no alterations.  The fit it great.  Look at this cute zipper I picked up in a bundle at the last Sewing Expo.  This was at the Vogue Fabrics booth.  I know, it’s a bit too green for the fabric, but I couldn’t resist the cute silver pull! 

One change I made was to topstitch down the pleats, about 3 inches from the top.  Then they release beneath the tummy area. 

This is a great pattern, simple to make, with really nice results.  The pattern has different views so that you can make this as many times as you want, with a different resulting look each time.  I plan on making this again, as soon as I can.

Yea, I finally finished my Karma Tank!  It’s very cute, I love it, here it is on me:

I did this as part of the Karma Tank knit-a-long over on Ravelry.  The design is by Wendy Bernard from the book Custom Knits.  The yarn is Louet Sales worsted wt. 100% linen, rough on the hands to knit with, but not too big of a bother.  I ordered it from Paradise Fibers.  It seams that this particular weight of yarn is being discontinued, so if you want it, you’d better order it now.  I ordered this cream color, plus another purple/navy color. 

If you’re on Ravelry, you can take a look at my projects page for my pattern alterations.  I knitted this up first per pattern instructions, which went fine until the bust part.   That ended up way too big and too long, so I ripped back just the stockinette part and decreased to the next smaller size and made it shorter.  I could have gone one size smaller, probably, but it’s great as is.  I’m still learning the value of negative ease in knit garments.  After all, this is something I steer clear of when sewing garments!  It’s a great top, I love the drape!  It gets softer with each washing.  I only used 3 balls of the yarn, not 4 that the pattern called for.  I’m glad to be finished, I’ve got many other projects to begin!

Vogue 8380

Guess what?  I sewed something!!!  Who would have thought that I had the time?  Certainly not me, but this one is easy enough.  Here’s a description of the pattern from the envelope:  “Mid-knee length dress has casing and tie variation, upper and lower sections gathered into waist inset, side zipper.”  And that’s about it.  I cut and sewed this in a day.  Now, if you’re going to sew this without a zipper as I did, make sure you use your most stretchy stretch seams available to you for all horizontal seams (the seams above and below the inset).  I used a long narrow zig-zag stitch to attach the waist inset band to the upper and lower parts.  Also, I didn’t use any interfacing on the facing band:

This is the wrong side, of course.  The instructions have you turning under the bottom raw edge and slip-stitching to the seams.  Believe it or not, though, this fabric was bulky, so I just serged the raw edge and left it “floating”, stitching it down in the ditch at the side seams.

So, I didn’t use a zipper; if you use one on this dress (which I would recommend if using anything but the stretchy-est fabrics), the instructions are very easy to follow.  It’s placed under the arm at the side seam. 

This is a cute dress, but fabric choice is important.  Choose a very drapey and/or thin fabric, because there is a lot of gathering.  This fabric was not the best choice, too bulky after all the gathering.  Also, in my opinion, the line drawing is very misleading.  It would lead you to believe that the waistband hits at the waist, but this is a baby doll dress, and that’s all there is to it.

It’s a very comfortable dress, but I would definitely add at least one inch to the bodice pieces!

Now, if you’re more daring, you can lower that waistband by adjusting the ties:

This was as low as I was willing to go, LOL!

Cute, comfy dress.  Great casual dress as is.  Choose your thinnest fabrics for this one, and check that bodice length!

It seems that way, what with swim team, dive team, tennis, and VBS.  Needless to say, I’ve gotten no sewing done, zip, zilch, nada.  I’m so jealous of you all that are cranking out beautiful Summer garments one after the other.  Well, I can dream of July, right?  I have been knitting, though.  I’m still working on the Karma Tank:

It looks pretty decent from this angle, right?  Take a look at the upper edge.  It’s not supposed to fall over like this!

The fit of the stockinette area was all off, even after I put this in the dryer.  Way too big.  Obviously, my stockinette gauge was off or something.  Soooooo, I did the thing I HATE doing and ripped back the bust area and started again, decreasing the stitch count to the next smaller size.  I’m about 3 inches up from the herringbone stitch, so we’ll see how this goes.  I’m knitting this as a part of the tank top knit-a-long on Ravelry, in a group appropriately called the Sexy Knitters Club.

I’m still dreaming of sewing, though, and, in a weak moment, “procured” a bunch of Jalie patterns that I’ve been craving:

I can’t wait to get started on a pair of those jeans, I’ve heard nothing but good things about these!

Hmmmm….I was trying to “creatively “ use up some old stash rayon.  I probably could have made it work a lot better if I had another print, rather than the solid.

For this top, I attached the facing to the inside at the top neck, sewed a long V down to a point at the front and then flipped the facing to the outside.  I turned under the outer facing edges and fused them in place with stitch witchery, then topstitched the outer edges down.  Well, as crazy as this might look, it’s very comfortable!

I had shortened the hem by at least 5 inches and left off the “extension” at the sleeve.

I used all French seams, and, just to be extra “fancy”, I mitered the corners of the hems and sleeves; not that you could tell very easily from this picture, but my batteries were going out:

BTW, did you happen to notice my screaming pink nail polish?  I finally went out this weekend and bought 2 of the new Essie Neon colors!!

The yellow is Funky Limelight, and the pink is Punchy Pink.  They are N-E-O-N!  You can see these nails from a mile away!  I haven’t done the yellow yet, I’m waiting to put that on the toes.  LOVE!

This is for Shannon.  Thanks for writing!!!!  Puppy’s name is Daisy, but most times we call her “Doosy”, or “Crazy Daisy”, or some other such play on words.  Here, you can see we added a namesake charm to her pretty “necklace”.  Very ladylike! 

Why?  We got a new addition:

DD’s birthday present.  Nope, she’s not a beagle, she’s a Fiest/Cocker Spaniel (a focker?).  Yeah, she’s cute…she’d better be, ‘cause she’s seriously robbing me of sewing time, dagnabbit!

I have been able to knit (puppy’ll let me knit while she sleeps on my lap).

My Karma Tank is coming along.  I’m using the recommended yarn Louet Sales Euroflax Linen.  I’ve never knitted with linen before, and others have said that it’s pretty rough on the hands.  I agree; it’s not like knitting with twine or anything, but it’s definitely got a “raw” quality.  I have another BWOF tunic cut out and ready to sew up.  It’s BWOF 4-2009-121.  I’m using some rayon from stash; I’m looking for the same kind of boho vibe as the one in the picture.  Hopefully, I can make it work (that is, if I ever get to sew again).

What did I get for Mother’s Day?  Time!  Time alone and unbothered to finish this dress:

With a belt:

Fabric:  a fabulous stretch cotton damask from Gorgeous Fabrics

Notions:  Invisible zipper, 4 3/4” size buttons, interfacing (I used fusible Tricot)

On me:

With a belt

Different belt:

This is a fabulous dress, but it needs to be fabulously accessorized, or it’s in danger of looking like a sack.  It looks better on me belted, I think, but I should probably find a better one.  Also, this dress turned out to be more baggy at the waist than the fashion picture would have you believe:

Also, the belt is worn further down toward the hip, which also decreases wrinkling.  I think I'm going to keep my version belted at the waist.  If all the ease bothered you, you could probably do more waist shaping at the side seams and back darts.

Back view:

On me:

Okay, so here are the details:

From the magazine:  “Popular amongst petites!  This sporty sheath dress emphasizes a slim waist and will rake in the compliments at a business lunch or after-work get-together.  Attractive details include the short raglan sleeves, a self-fabric belt and button-down trench coat-style flaps.”

Here’s one more picture of the front detail:

Don’t you just love this?

I love all the details:  Front darts, waist “point”, side-seam flap pockets, back darts for shaping, and front and back kick pleats.   I traced and cut a size 20.  This is a half-sized pattern, for people 5’3” and shorter; I’m 5’4”, and I had no problem with the fit.  The hardest part was figuring out the sleeves.  The instructions have you cutting and making turn-ups (what’s a turn-up? isn’t that a vegetable?).  After sewing and ripping several times, I simply finished the edge with a cuff and sewed the finished sleeve to the rest of the dress.  At the underarm, I serged the seam allowance and turned it under.  The other thing I couldn’t get was that pesky waist point.  After 4 attempts, I left it as is.  A nice belt will cover that nicely!  All seams were serged.  I really like this!  This is an interesting take on a simple sheath dress. 

Love it!

I did! And if you missed it, OMG!  You missed so many overwhelming, droolworthy, fiberfantastic things to see!  Observe:

Can you see all of this fabulous Noro yarn?  3 big bags of it!  Plus, I got a ball winder, a huge blocking board (not pictured), and more stitch markers.  Ohhhh what a wonderful show!  This exceeded all my expectations, and I didn’t even attend classes (which I heard were wonderful)!  I also heard a bunch of you fellow knitsters/sewists  were there, and I’m truly sorry I missed you.  I loved it so much that I went back a second day for more yarn.

I’ve not made any progress on my dress because I’m too $%^& busy with all of the EOY school, sports, work stuff.  But,  I did want to share some polish love:

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I wasn’t expecting to love this as much as I do!  It’s Milani Key Lime Shine.  It’s metallic with a touch of sage.  I did this mani in a hurry, thinking I wasn’t going to like this color, but, man, is it bright!  Me likey!